Aussie and the Fox

I happened to be in a Lancaster City Council meeting in 2013 when Mr. Fox presented his proposal to open a classy restaurant in the first block of West King Street with his new Australian son-in-law. This was not, he stressed, going to be a bar. 

No one on the council had any objections. Thirty-eight West King was a beautifully neglected old storefront, and with more people coming to downtown Lancaster for music and theater, Lancaster could easily support another quality restaurant.

But later that year—after my friend and I choked down an exceptionally dry rendition of chicken and waffles and our server intimated that people in Lancaster might not be ready for what Aussie does—I objected.

The restaurant looked beautiful. There were high-backed orange benches along raised tables in the front display windows, a handsome U-shaped bar in the center, a faux fireplace in the back and exposed brick walls throughout. The brown paper placemats were hand-stamped with the snappiest logo in the city. The servers greeted you with careful poise. And yet the food was, uh, nothing to write home about.

But it’s hard for me to stay angry at brunch, so every time On Orange was full I ended up at Aussie. Now I’m pleased to report some more sunny encounters:

• Both Australia-branded offerings are unusually colorful and flavorful. The Aussie Brekkie is a healthy pile of wild mushrooms, creamed spinach and boursin cheese under poached eggs, and the Aussie Burger, an improbable stack of beef, pineapple, onion chutney, pickled beetroot, smoked Gouda and over-easy egg on ciabatta. (Note: do break the yolk before you take a bite.)
• I rarely jump at sweet, bready breakfasts, but a short stack of Honey Crisp Apple pancakes went down light and easy with a bit of maple syrup & butter.
• A reliable source informed me that creamed chipped beef in homemade black pepper gravy is an important part of this nutritious Fox Breakfast: two eggs any style; homefries; choice of bacon, sausage, ham or chickpea sausage with toast or English muffin.
• There is an eye-popping array of (apparently natural) striped fruit drinks that come out of the juicer, and the recommended green apple/celery/ginger and carrot/celery/lemon creations taste as healthy as they look.

Finally, although I haven’t braved it, fried chicken breast is now served with “apple cider honey mustard & red onions in between a sweet cream waffle.”

It sounds juicy. 

http://www.aussieandthefox.com/menu/dinner/