Saturday, March 28, 2015

Of Boys and Burgers (Belvedere and Jethro's)

Monday nights are burger nights for at least two Lancaster restaurants: The Belvedere Inn on Queen and Lemon, and Jethro's Restaurant & Bar on Ruby and First. I know this because a bunch of friends convene at one of the two sites nearly every Monday night.

Meeting the group for drinks is a lesson in rules and exceptions. They are mostly bikers—both motorcycle and bicycle. They are coupled to smart, beautiful women—but Mondays are "men's fellowship," and they're drawn to the Belvedere like dogs to ice cream. Conversation can be eclipsed by mechanical problems and dirty jokes, or it can explode in opinion about film, food and fashion.

One integrating theme is craft. These guys appreciate well-designed, well-made stuff. Which is why, in a town full of "best" burgers, I venture to say that The Belvedere and Jethro's are doing something right.


  • The Belvedere Inn
    The Belvedere has a sparkly, dark interior with bars and table seating on two levels, including an outdoor deck. Jamie Hornberger is often behind the downstairs bar on Monday nights, and keeps the spot popular with quick service and generous pours.

    Belvedere burgers are unusual. They are miniature "Kobe" sliders on steamed bao buns with spicy chili oil as a dipping sauce. Those of you who have read Larry Olmstead's exposés on Kobe beef will know that what the Belvedere serves is almost certainly not real Kobe, and if it were, the chef would not be grinding it into hamburger.

    It doesn't matter—that sh*t is delicious! Plus, on Monday nights you get each mini burger for a buck—a third of their regular price. It's gotten so bad that Jamie doesn't bother asking what we want; we just give him a number.
  • Jethro's Restaurant & Bar
    Jethro's is a comfortable neighborhood hangout with food a cut above. On Mondays co-owner Bob Esbenshade is behind the bar. Their drink specials—the Manhattan, the Hot and Dirty Martini and the unlisted margarita with mezcal—are special indeed.


    The Jethro's burger is not so much of a patty as it is a round. It arrives sizzling hot with a side of mixed veggies, oozing natural juices and flavor.

    The only mistake you can make is trying to eat it like a burger. The two dry slices of French bread that flank it are for decoration only. My one attempt at getting teeth around a Jethro's sandwich sent a fountain of hot grease and myoglobin flying across the table, nearly drowning my buddy's new iPhone.

Neither restaurant asks you what temperature you want your meat. This is a relief, since most burger joints will overcook your order anyhow.  

For Jethro's and the Belvedere, I take it as a sign of cockiness befitting a guys' night out. Like Steve Jobs said, "People don't know what they want until you show it to them."

http://www.belvederelancaster.com/menu.html
http://www.jethrosrestaurantandbar.com/menu.pdf

The Belvedere Inn on Urbanspoon   Jethro's Restaurant & Bar on Urbanspoon